Throughout history, jewellery has been more than just an adornment; it has been a symbol of identity, power, protection, and spirituality. Many cultures, separated by thousands of miles and with no contact, have independently chosen similar materials to create their most treasured pieces. Among the most revered are turquoise, coral, jade, and opal—stones steeped in meaning and tradition. As I embark on my own journey of crafting silver jewellery, incorporating beadwork and traditional techniques, I find myself drawn to the deep history behind these materials and the cultures that have shaped their significance.
Turquoise: A Stone of the Sky and Sea
Turquoise is one of the most universally recognized and revered stones in human history. Found in ancient Egyptian tombs, Persian palaces, Native American amulets, and Tibetan prayer beads, it carries a significance that transcends time and geography.
For the Native American tribes of the Southwest, turquoise is a sacred stone believed to provide protection, strength, and guidance. The Navajo, Zuni, and Hopi tribes have long incorporated it into jewellery, headdresses, and ceremonial objects, seeing it as a gift from the sky and earth. Warriors and hunters carried turquoise amulets for protection, while shamans used it in rituals to bring rain or ward off negative energy.
Similarly, in Persian culture, turquoise was considered a stone of good fortune, often inlaid into weapons, crowns, and architecture. The Aztecs also held turquoise in high regard, crafting elaborate mosaics of the stone on masks, shields, and ceremonial daggers. It was associated with their god Quetzalcoatl, the feathered serpent, symbolizing wisdom and life.
I plan to incorporate turquoise into my jewellery, honouring its ancient meanings and spiritual qualities. The vibrant blue-green hues will be set in silver, allowing the metal’s cool sheen to highlight the stone’s natural beauty. By combining this with beadwork, I hope to create pieces that blend historical reverence with contemporary artistry.
Coral: A Connection to Life and the Ocean
Coral, another primary material I plan to work with, has been used in jewellery for millennia. Unlike minerals that form deep within the earth, coral originates from the ocean, carrying with it the symbolism of life, protection, and connection to water deities.
In Mediterranean cultures, red coral was believed to have protective properties, especially for children and sailors. Ancient Romans and Greeks wore coral amulets to ward off the evil eye and misfortune. In Tibetan Buddhism, coral is considered one of the seven treasures and is often used in prayer beads and ceremonial objects.
Native American tribes, particularly the Pueblo and Navajo peoples, integrated coral into their jewellery alongside turquoise, creating stunning pieces that represented harmony between land and sea. The combination of turquoise and coral was seen as a balance between the sky and water, masculine and feminine, earth and spirit.
My jewellery will honour this balance, bringing together these two stones in ways inspired by traditional designs but with my own artistic touch. The interplay between coral’s warmth and turquoise’s cool tones creates a striking contrast that has captivated civilizations for centuries.
Sourcing Materials Ethically and Sustainably
As I work with these precious materials, I am deeply aware of the environmental and ethical concerns surrounding their extraction and use. My goal is to source materials responsibly, ensuring that they are obtained through ethical mining practices and sustainable harvesting methods.
For turquoise, I intend to work with small-scale, ethical miners who prioritize environmental preservation and fair labour practices. I ensure that I know the specific mines my stones are sourced from and how they are extracted. Many Native American artisans and independent miners offer ethically sourced turquoise that respects both the land and the people involved in its extraction.
Coral presents a more complex challenge due to concerns over ocean conservation and reef damage. Because of this, I exclusively use vintage coral purchased from antique auction houses. This allows me to upcycle older pieces, giving them new life while ensuring that my work does not contribute to environmental harm. Repurposing antique coral aligns with my commitment to sustainability and respects marine ecosystems.
When it comes to jade, I will seek out ethically sourced options, particularly from artisans and suppliers who ensure that mining practices do not exploit workers or damage cultural heritage sites. For opal, I aim to work with independent miners who focus on sustainable extraction methods that minimize land disruption.
A Philosophy Rooted in Tradition and Sustainability
My approach to jewellery-making is deeply intertwined with my personal values and lifestyle. I live modestly by choice, embracing practices that align with sustainability and quality craftsmanship. I wear only vintage clothing because it was made with better materials and superior craftsmanship. I grow my own food because it tastes better, and I know exactly how it was cultivated. This same philosophy is carried into my work—each material I use is carefully chosen not just for its beauty, but for its ethical sourcing and historical significance.
By making ethical sourcing a priority, I hope to create jewellery that not only honours ancient traditions but also respects the world we live in today. Raising awareness about responsible material use is an important step in preserving both the natural world and the cultural histories tied to these precious stones.
Jade: The Stone of Immortality and Spiritual Power
Jade is another stone that deeply fascinates me, particularly in its role in Aztec culture. For the Aztecs, jade was considered more valuable than gold. It was associated with life, fertility, and divine power, often carved into intricate masks, ornaments, and burial offerings. They believed that jade could bring eternal life, and their most sacred deities were adorned with it.
The reverence for jade wasn’t limited to Mesoamerica. In China, jade has been a symbol of purity, wisdom, and protection for over 5,000 years. The Maori of New Zealand carved jade into hei-tiki pendants, representing ancestry and spiritual connection. Across the globe, jade has consistently been linked to strength, renewal, and the afterlife.
I am eager to work with jade, but carving it is an art that requires precision and patience. Once I acquire the necessary tools, including diamond-tipped power tools, I will begin experimenting with carving techniques. Though modern technology makes the process faster, I deeply respect the fact that ancient artisans shaped jade with only hand tools, devoting days or even weeks to a single piece. As a nod to their craftsmanship, I intend to incorporate traditional hand-carving methods alongside modern techniques.
Blending Ancient Techniques with Modern Craftsmanship
While I am eager to embrace modern tools for efficiency, I also want to experience the labour-intensive methods of ancient jewellers. I have begun experimenting with hand tools like a push drill, allowing me to understand the painstaking effort required to create even the simplest designs in the past. This hands-on approach gives me a profound appreciation for the artisans who, without modern technology, managed to craft intricate, enduring works of art.
By blending these ancient techniques with modern craftsmanship, I hope to create jewellery that carries the spirit of the past while being wearable and meaningful today. Every piece I design tells a story—whether it’s the spiritual protection of turquoise, the life-affirming properties of coral, the immortal strength of jade, or the mystical allure of opal.
In a world that moves fast, often forgetting the wisdom of those who came before us, my goal is to preserve their artistry in silver, stone, and beadwork. Through this, I hope to not only honour these cultures but also invite others to see the beauty and significance embedded in every piece of jewellery we wear.
